Safi is mainly modern, as it's housing a fishing port and a diversified industry. If you enter the city along the most common route, you'll see the industry before you see the city. Don't let this make you turn around.
The city it self is charming, with an old city very much alive. Here you might be tempted to buy pottery, seeing all shapes and patterns in a lot of shops, but then you are in one of the best places in Morocco. There are plenty of opportunities to walk around and look at people working on their pottery. When you have been in places like Moulay Idriss you will have seen the beautiful covering on the roofs, made out of green tiles. Safi is the place where these are produced.
The old city of Safi is one of the two hearts of Safi about one kilometre the centre of the new centre is, and in between the two there is fairly little going on.
The old city is apparently not the place of the people with money, but the little Safi has of tourist traffic is staged here, in between the ceramic shops that try to sell as much to as good a price as possible before the next bus brings the tourist on the track for the next destination.
By the time most traveller's get as far as Safi, they will have made up their mind about Moroccan business culture. Some love it already, while others have realized to what extent they fall apart when the price of a product is started to be discussed.
I belong to the latter group, the only times I have made a bargain were the times I didn't want the product. But with Debila I didn't have to haggle anymore. Everything is fixed price, and prices are damned good, too.
What he has to offer are Safi ceramics of normal quality, nothing fancy, but all is very nice, and would add to the charm of most Western kitchens.
A walk around Safi at night is not a lonely one. While so many other Moroccan cities have a tendency of dying quickly after sunset, Safi goes on deep into the night.
Walks around Moroccan cities are among the things I enjoy most doing when I visit the country. The artificial and sparse light helps new contours and colours to stand out, while they might be turned almost invisible from the strong sun light during day time.