Should get out here, you will really understand how far away from the beaten track it is possible to get in Morocco. You will have to go down the old coast road from Safi, and look out right as you pass through a heavy forest.
Sawira Qadima, or the Ancient Essaouira as a translation would make it, as nice and quiet little spot. Today it is divided in two parts: the tourist village and the fisher village.
Nobody will mind your presence, even if there are weeks between any non-Moroccan finds his way down here. I arrived in the afternoon, as all the boats came ashore, and preparations for tomorrow had started.
There is one sight here: the old Portuguese fortress out by the sea, called Agouz, which is not attended by anyone. Entering is easy, but this is mainly all about nature taking over.
Hotels and alternatives
Sawira Qadima has a number of summer cabins, but these tend to be filled up outside a normal market, by government officials on holidays and such. Camping should be possible, and outside season, the area is virtually deserted and there will be no people around to tell you to get lost.
Better for many visitors is to visit Sawira Qadima while spending the nights in Safi.
Restaurants and alternatives
Cafés, and excellent sea food can be bought from the fisher men. Interesting for anyone travelling with their own utensils, is that big crabs are considered inedible and could be bought for small cash.
Go back to Safi.
At last check, there is no normal transport, at least not outside tourist season. Out of that time, you will have to arrange for your transport.
Beware of the strong undercurrents.